For all of my real or perceived crankiness in evaluating Southern Wisconsin's coffee scene, rarely do I go to a coffeehouse and simply think it sucks. Right now, I'm in one such place. It's an old granddaddy as coffeehouses go, Madison's Espresso Royale. Seems like a tourist trap, and I guess this is a city of intellectual "tourists," as it were. For all my pro-pedestrian views, I'll cede the point that these kinds of dense, pedestrian-oriented areas don't exactly create Darwinian conditions for coffeehouses. Those Darwinian conditions exist in a place like Milwaukee County (at least west of the Milwaukee River), where customers can get in their car and drive to the next cafe relatively painlessly. I'm drinking a soy latte that at least makes up for in volume what it lacks in high-quality taste.
More discouraging was my visit to St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Church for the Saturday evening Mass. Speaking of differences between Madison and Milwaukee, another is that Milwaukee's Catholics (of whom I am not one, at least not officially) definitely enjoy the funkygroovy stream of Rome-based religion. You'd think Madison would be the more religiously liberal place, but this Mass had a markedly retro bent--I'd call it dreary in a way I've never quite experienced in a Catholic church before. The hymns were sung at dirge tempo, and the priest gave this interminable, boring homily during which he lost his train of thought twice. It's odd that in a Madison parish, I would encounter the kind of tedium I grew up with in my childhood church.
In our times--and in this place--I find that particularly tragic. The momentous events of last year were broadcast from here to the entire nation, and perhaps even the world. In no place is the debate over renegotiation of the social contract playing out as much as it is here. I looked back with some sadness at the world as I saw it with nineteen or twenty-year old eyes during my first trips to Madison. Here more than anywhere, the civic realm, academia and religion coalesced into a soaring worldview, and it was thrilling to fantasize about it. Twenty years later, religion and the humanities seem to be asleep in the conductor's car, having long since relinquished the wheel. I think the challenge for those who feel passionately about such things is to find a way for the treasures of the mind and spirit to cut through the crapola--the phones and Facebook and, heck, the blogs, which all have their rightful place but have somehow turned us into a nation of inattentive live-ers.


